Egypt Travel guide

Egypt's unassailable position as one of the world's most dazzling destinations is well deserved. Nowhere else on Earth will you find such a wealth of ancient sites, living history and warm, friendly people. This land of the Kings promises you a royal welcome. It also promises a warm welcome, too, with scorching summer days cooled by the onshore breezes at the Red Sea resorts. Egypt's beach resorts are amongst the most inviting this side of the Caribbean - fine sands, excellent diving and snorkelling, and sleek modern hotel complexes stretch along a sublime coastline with the mountains of Sinai rising dramatically behind. Water sports and golf enthusiasts will love it here as, of course, will sun worshippers - the temperature hovers around 27 degrees centigrade (81F) from June to October. Inland things get a lot hotter. Egypt's history is inextricably linked to the Nile and, for those choosing a holiday at one of the riverbank's resorts, you can be assured of wonders at every turn. From the country's industrious capital, Cairo, through to the entrancing port of Aswan, you'll experience enormous monuments, each more dramatic than the last. At Luxor, the Valley of the Kings hides the great tombs of the pharaohs and the architectural wonder of the Temple of Hatshepsut. At Karnak, royal Egypt's most magnificent complex of temples and monuments seem to be more fit for gods than for humans - as, for the people of ancient Egypt, that's exactly what they considered their pharaohs to be. Experience a light and sound spectacular at the pyramids of Cairo and you'll believe them.

Egypt's recently-constructed strip of modern holiday resorts along the Red Sea Riviera, centred on Sharm El Sheikh, is backed by the historic peaks of the Sinai mountains, while mainland resorts such as El Gouna and Hurghada are just a drive away from the winding course of the River Nile - both regions are pretty special, bounded by the sparkling surf of the Red Sea. The waters here are alive with possibilities - whether you want to simply let them lap at your feet or you want to dive into them and explore some of the most spectacular underwater life this side of the Caribbean. Five star hotel complexes, laid back resorts and a string of beach bars offer everything for relaxing days at the coast. Around Sharm El Sheikh and Hurghada - which lie virtually on opposite banks of the Red Sea - is where you'll find the very best SCUBA diving, with accredited PADI schools ready and waiting to let you unlock the secrets of Egypt's underwater kingdom. The Red Sea coast is a vibrant, popular tourist spot attracting a healthy mix of Italians, Brits and Egyptian holidaymakers drawn to its soft, powdery sands, its effortless mix of ancient and modern and its world class diving opportunities. Swimming is safe, with calm seas and clear waters and, with those long, sun filled days, suntanning is only too easy - take plenty of SPF.

Egypt has a way of bringing history to life like no other country on Earth. Children will love how all those Indiana Jones films are brought vividly to life at the temples of Karnak and the Pyramids of Giza but the heat of the midday sun will be too much for small heads to bear - don't forget to cover up, and visit early in the morning or late in the afternoon.

Horse carriages down the Nile are a fun way for little feet to enjoy the sights without getting too tired. You'll have no trouble flagging one down in Luxor. Even better (and more bumpy, although cushioned saddles smooth away most of the jolts) a donkey ride above the Valley of the Kings is great fun. Scrambling into dark tomb chambers is, of course, great fun for kids and adults alike - Tuthmosis III's tomb is suitably thrilling. At the sea, there's no shortage of fun to be had - waterparks, catamaran trips, snorkelling and swimming in the relatively calm and sheltered waters of the Red Sea - all are accessible from Egypt's well appointed coastal resorts.

Crocodile Island, Movenpick, Luxor
Part of the vast Movenpick Hotel complex, this small zoo features a variety of animals, birds, monkeys and camels - as well as a petting zoo (best not to get that mixed up with the Croc enclosure, though). A great, family-friendly resort

Pharaonic Village, Cairo (3 El Bahr El Aazam St. Giza)
A replica of Tutankhamun's tomb is the highlight of this tremendous attraction near to downtown Cairo. This reconstructed Pharaonic Village attraction aims to recreate a living ancient Egypt - and does it very convincingly, with boat trips around the canals which ring the village and the boy king's tomb recreated exactly as it was when it was discovered by Howard Carter.

Fangoon, Cairo (Sakkara Road, Sabil Om Hashim, Giza)

Qanatar Island, River Nile
A lovely river island popular with daytripping Egyptians, Qanatar contains a small, rather quaint amusement park with bumper cars and Ferris wheel, linked by a series of charming Victorian stone bridges and locks.

Media Production City, Cairo
This oddly named attraction is affectionately called the 'Hollywood of the East' and, together with the film and TV studios, is home to a raft of digital and traditional entertainment options. The Mubarak studio complex has its own dedicated theme park, Magic Land, with dolphin and seal shows, Dinosaurs' Jungle with a prehistoric environment complete with Tyrannosaurus Rex, exotic birds and even primitive humans - traversed by boats plying through the waterways surrounding Dinosaur Island. The park also has outdoor and indoor game game zones, open air auditoria, cinemas and shopping malls. Oh, and 22 restaurants, should all this fun give you an appetite.

Egyptian culture has had plenty of time to get its cuisine right. A land at the crossroads - Africa, Asia, Europe and the Middle East all offering their ingredients and techniques - Egypt's palette offers a little of everything. Not as spicy as Indian, not as garlicky as the Mediterranean, the dishes are heavy with tomatoes, aubergines (eggplants), chic peas and grilled lamb and chicken. Meze-style starters (small plates of spicy, mainly vegetable-based appetisers) are a great way to introduce your palette to the kaleidoscope of Egyptian flavours - babaganoush, pureed eggplant, is a popular example. Other vegetables you'll find easily include dark, bitter okra, cabbage and potatoes. Rice is almost always served - even for breakfast. Later in the day it might accompany the ubiquitous, but really rather delicious shish kabob. With or without a skewer, this concoction of equal parts meat and chunky vegetables is usually accompanied with a greens and tomato salad (ensure it's not washed in untreated water. If you can't guarantee that, steer clear) nutty tahini sauce and pita bread. A word about bread, too - don't expect the fluffy white or granary variety. Egyptian bread is often unleavened, such as whole wheat pita, coated with coarse ground wheat. Dipping sauces are universally served before your meal - tahini, ratatouille-based vegetable mash-ups, or hummus. More adventurous carnivores may like grilled pigeon - a bony little blighter, the pigeon is a dark, gamey delicacy. Perch and tuna, both fried, are popular Red Sea catches sometimes served, unusually, with vibrant Egyptian spices - you'll see the earthen coloured mounds in the country's many spice markets. Despite the abundance of raw materials, Egyptian food is delicately spiced, not overwhelmed with it. You'll often see the curry-like cumin in a shaker at the table, to add zing where you need it. In a Moslem country alcohol is frowned on and isn't automatically offered. But in tourist resorts you'll have no trouble finding a decent bottle of wine, or a thirst quenching draft of Stella, the local light beer. Coffee is more of a ritual than a drink - served hot and sweet and totally delicious.

Sharm El Sheikh's thriving, cosmopolitan nightlife comes as a bit of a shock - you are, after all, at the tip of the Sinai peninsula here, just a sand dune away from the desert. Yet here, at the Red Sea coast, there's a rich stew of nightclubs, discos and bars, glowing and shimmering away every evening like an oasis on the coastal strip. A former sleepy fishing village, Sharm has everything that partygoers are looking for during their holiday. Hotels offer a decent menu of nighttime entertainment - belly dancing shows, open-air techno raves (notably at the Sanafir Hotel) and sufi dancing (at Fantasia) all attract the crowds. Clubs like Hard Rock Café, Bus Stop and Mojo's are friendly - and usually get busy after 11. Smoking Shisha, the Egyptian water pipe is a big Egyptian pastime. You can chose from a variety of tobacco flavours for your pipe - apple, mixed fruit and cherry are popular. Many bars are alcohol free, serving a refreshing variety of fruit juices instead. Try it, you might be surprised.

Neighbouring Shark's Bay and Um Sid are fast gaining a reputation for the quality and range of their nightlife. While essentially suburbs of Sharm, they're beginning to feel like resorts in their own right and certainly this strip of coast, running north from Sharm through to Ras Um Sid, Na'ama Bay and Shark's Bay is one continuous coastal entertainment complex, with upmarket hotels, malls, and restaurants - the fish restaurant on the beach at Shark's bay is superb, while Na'ama Bay's Cactus disco is always busy.

Hurghada's nightlife is hotting up too. Its surprising variety of shows range from the traditional - belly dancing, to the bizarre - Russian shows (catering to the large amount of wealthy Russian tourists). German and Italian visitors seeking a lively evening too has made Hurghada the premier ocean-side party town on Egypt's mainland. Premier spots include Papa's Bar and The Wave.

Aswan's Nubian nights are a joy. Several different types of dance, all native to the Nubian people who first inhabited Egypt, are the highlight of these cultural, interactive evenings. Most Egyptian Red Sea resorts offer the same mix of traditional floor shows, pulsating discos and chill-out 'smoke' bars.

For a real change of pace, Taba Heights, a green oasis at the northern end of the Sinai Peninsula is a self-contained resort where, when the sun goes down, everything revolves around the hotels. Great if you like tourist-themed floor shows, dancing on the hotel's patios or simply brushing up your Bridge skills!

But it's in Cairo where the cultural stakes are stepped up, with the city home to a fine orchestra, plenty of jazz bars and a vibrant theatre scene.

Luxor
Called, with good reason, the world's biggest open air museum, Luxor is where many of Egypt's most impressive monuments are scattered. A modern, bustling city, Luxor nevertheless feels incredibly, bizarrely ancient - even its modern buildings look like ancient temples. Look at the National bank of Egypt (located near the winter palace), the spa, and the railway station - all looking as formidable as monuments. On Luxor's east bank you can visit the closest temple to the city, the Temple of Luxor, by Amenophis III. Once connected to the Karnak temple by a processional street, the temple is a well-preserved taster for the wonders to come at Karnak. The Temple of Karnak is actually three main temples, a series of smaller enclosed ones, and several outer structures situated on 250 acres of irrigated land. This vast complex was built over thirteen hundred years and is, quite honestly, beautiful. A more impressive human achievement would be hard to find, even in this jaw-dropping country (oh, apart from the Pyramids). A forest of obelisks, pylons and halls - lit by a stunning nightly sound and light show - Karnak must not be missed. The Valley of the Kings, further inland from the Nile, is a dusty, rock-strewn canyon still unearthing its secrets. Hollowed with tombs from the 18th and 19th Dynasties, Most excavations feature three corridors, an antechamber and a sunken sarcophagus chamber. Seti I's tomb is the longest in the Valley, but all are intriguing - with their strange hieroglyphs and cool, still interiors. Try Ramesses VI rather than Tutankhamun's rather unimpressive resting place if time's tight.

Aswan
Containing, so they say, three times more stone than the Great Pyramid, Aswan's stunning high dam is one 60's high rise that you should travel to see. Four kilometres long and 111 metres high, it took 3,000 men three years to build. The reconstructed Philae Temple was reassembled after the High Dam got in the way. Dedicated to the goddess Isis, the island temple is one of the last built in Egypt. Elephantine Island is the largest island in the Aswan area. It was the original centre of life here, with settlement dating back to 3000BC. Wander around the Nubian villages' maze of narrow streets and learn a little about the life of these original Egyptians.

Abu Simbel
Near the border with Sudan, this huge temple built into a cliff wall is instantly recognisable. The temples were dismantled and relocated in 1968 when waters started to rise after the Aswan Dam was completed. Ramesses II built seven rock-cut temples but these, on the west bank, are the most impressive. The massive facade of the main temple is dominated by the four seated colossal statues of Ramesses. Each statue, 67 feet high, is seated on a throne and wears the double crown of Upper and Lower Egypt. They're all sculpted directly from the rock face.

Sinai Peninsula (Sharm, Taba Shark's Bay)
St Catherine's Monastery, a short ride inland from Sharm, is a hauntingly beautiful place where you'll find the burning bush and a room full of the bones of the monastery's previous inhabitants. The Byzantine church inside the Monastery has never been damaged since its construction in 542 A.D and its Well is much older - mentioned in Moses' flight from Egypt when he came upon the seven daughters of Jethro tending their flocks, one of whom he later married. You can continue in Moses' steps by climbing Mount Sinai, if you're prepared to start your trek in the early morning - around 2am - to reach the top as the sun rises. Less agile pilgrims wanting to take Moses' route can ride on a camel.

Colour Canyon, Taba
One of the natural wonders of the Sinai, the Coloured Canyon is worth a trip. Squeeze tightly between striped, weathered and sensually curving canyon walls. Looking for all the world like a supersized potter's wheel disaster, the canyon walls are streaked yellow, purple, reds, magenta and gold - and tower forty metres above the desert floor.

Not surprisingly, the mighty Nile has been Egypt's M1 for thousands of years and, still, remains the most reliable way to traverse a country which, by and large, exists either by its banks or within striking distance of them. Motor taxis, cruises and ferries ply the main distances between Aswan, Luxor and Cairo - stopping at tourist sights along the way.

Rail
The Egyptian State Railway is a government-owned system founded in 1851 which services the entire Nile Valley down to Aswan, the Red Sea cities of Suez and Port Said, the Delta and Northern Coast cities of Alexandria (two stops) and Mersa Matruh. There are at least half a dozen through trains a day on major routes. Fares are inexpensive, but unless one is travelling with a tour, tickets must be purchased at the main railway stations (in Cairo at the Ramses Station at Midan Ramses).

By Bus
Air- conditioned buses link most parts of Egypt to Cairo and Alexandria. Seats may be reserved up to two days in advance. There is also a fleet of cheaper non-air-conditioned buses. Although bus times may change without notice, departures are so frequent that schedule changes are not a problem.

The principle carrier to Aswan and Luxor is the Upper Egyptian Bus Company, 4 Yussef Abbas, MN. Tel: 260-9304, 260-9297/8. Departures are from 45 al Azhar and the terminal at Midan Ahmed Helmi. Two buses a day complete the run to Aswan, departing early morning and arriving in the evening. The large red and white or blue and white Cairo busses regularly shuffle around the city, but these are always overcrowded and uncomfortable. More enjoyable are the smaller orange-and-white buses which do not permit standing.

Sharm El Sheik
Most attractions are close by, and are easily reached on foot. If you require a taxi (and, sometimes, heat can make even a journey of a couple of hundred metres a formidable marathon), make sure you pick one up from a recognised stand (find out from your hotel where these are) or ask your hotel to get one for you. Taxis are no longer allowed to drive up to the front door of hotels, so you may have to walk to the outer parking bay or the main gate. Make sure you agree a price before you get in - again, your hotel's concierge will know. Expect to pay around 50 EGP for a trip across town.

Luxor Museum, Luxor
While this is a small museum, it is carefully edited, and most of the relics are from the surrounding area - completing the jigsaw, and essential for visitors to get a deeper insight into the lives of the men who built the surrounding temples, and the Pharaohs whose lives (and after lives) they celebrate.

Nubian Museum, Aswan
The Nubian Museum is one of the most important museums in Egypt. It carefully and completely chronicles the Nubian people's influence on Egypt (often overlooked), and was built in recognition of their gift of land, after the Aswan Dam submerged many of the Nuban villages. Zones tick off all the major epochs. Pre-history, Pharaonic Age, Graeco-Roman, Christianity and Islam in Nubia - with a separate Nubian Folk exhibition. Outside, in the sun, you can see the colourful Nubian House, Coptic niches, columns, sarcophagi and Tombs.

Hurghada Marine Biology Museum, Hurghada
Fascinatingly meticulous collection of Red Sea life - flora and fauna, corals and clown fish. There's a strong emphasis on conservation and lots of colourful little Nemos for the kids to point at, excitedly.

Egyptian Museum, Tahrir Square, Cairo
Undoubtedly the mother and father of all Egyptian antiquities collections, the Egyptian Museum is worth the trip to Cairo for those keen on learning more about the country's colossal history. Of the 130,000 objects, the treasures of the Tutankhamun tomb dominate but the museum's ground-breaking restoration and interpretive work is equally fascinating.

Aswan
Sharia as-Souq is the main market in town, full of life until well into the night, it's an infectious place - but don't let that infection spread to actually buying too much. The quality here is distinctly variable, despite the plaintive cries of 'luvly jubbly'. If you don't like what you like, leave, there'll be a cheaper, better version just a market stall away.

Luxor
Lots of bazaars line Luxor's central three streets and you'll find the usual range of souvenirs here. Far more reliable is the out of town Fair Trade Centre, near the Emilio Hotel on Karnack Street. Every product sold is made from a local, usually very poor, family - and the craftsmanship, whether weaving or pottery, is excellent.

Hurghada
Plenty of options to part you with your cash here - from Mahmud's delightful perfume shop from authentic (and fake) papyrus scrolls on sale at the Museum's shop, to jewellery and clothes. Shopkeepers are friendly if a little over-keen, but you'll be able to stroll the main streets with relative ease.

Sharm El Sheikh
Lots of shopping options line up along the Sinai peninsula's coastline. The goods are the same pretty much everywhere you go - jewellery, perfume, clothes and trinkets. The prices, however, vary wildly. Haggle. Expect to get whatever you want for at least half of the asking price. The Old market is a jumble of stalls stacked high and frantic traders - where prices for papyrus, pottery and fabrics are very reasonable. At the huge Naama Centre you can browse exquisite rugs, fine clothing and delicate glassware. Most tourists take a daytrip to Dahab, about an hour away, where the prices are even keener. Dahab has lots of pleasant shops selling Egyptian cotton, silver, leather and incense - all at about half the price you'd pay in Sharm.

Cairo
Khan el-Khalili is one of the most historic markets in the world, founded by the Emir Djaharks el-Khalili in 1382. The spice markets, alleyways and off streets, fine gold jewellery, American jeans and Turkish rugs, perfumeries and tailors will grip the shopaholic like a vice. Wear comfortable shoes and prepare to spend a day here.

Dune Safaris
A desert Safari is a wonderfully exhilarating day trip from the Red Sea coast. Hurghada is practically in the desert and, as such, an easy place to book a trip from. Drive over dunes in jeeps, visit a Bedouins' village and swap your Jeep for a camel for a blast of Laurence of Arabia fun.

For the adrenaline seekers there are many go-cart rings, motorbike and motocross centres and quadrunner (4 wheels motorbike) operators along the coast. A fun choice would be the sunset quad trip to the desert, when a caravan of dozens of quads make it to a desert oasis under a canopy of stars. Wonderful.

Diving
With the clearest waters in the middle east, the Red Sea can offer divers wonderful visibility, vibrant coral reefs and healthy underwater fish stocks. Wherever you're based, you'll have no trouble finding a dive school. Courses from PADI approved centres, daily excursions to gigantic coral outcrops, the vertical walls of Ras Mohammed, and the wrecks of Sha'ab Abu Nuhas, or overnight excursions to the far off islands of The Brothers and Zabargad are all possible from your resort. A PADI course takes about five days to complete but, by the end of the week, you'll be exploring some of the best reefs in the world, so it's worth putting in the hours.

Horse and Camel Riding
Wherever you're based, you'll have the chance of sampling horse or camel riding, whether for half an hour along your hotel beach, or on a longer trip in the desert. Beach horse and camel riding is the best way to start - as desert riding takes a little more skill, and, usually, takes up to half a day.

Golf
Sunny weather and sea - the Red Sea resorts were made for golfers! In the past few years three stunning golf courses have been developed and a new one is on its way - greening the once barren desert. Luscious fairways and greens as good as any European golf courses, can be found in El Gouna (Steigenberger Golf Resort), app. 25 km North of Hurghada; Soma Bay (The Cascades Golf & Country Club), app. 30 km South of Hurghada and the Jolie Ville Golf Resort in Sharm el Sheikh (Sinai).